Does a Bill of Sale Need to Be Notarized?

In New York, generally no. A bill of sale for a private vehicle sale does not have to be notarized, and the DMV provides its own form for the purpose.

That said, plenty of people notarize one anyway, and in a few situations it is genuinely worth doing. Here is where the line sits.

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What a bill of sale is for

It records the transaction: who sold, who bought, what vehicle, for how much, and on what date. It protects both sides.

For the seller, it is evidence of the date they stopped owning the vehicle, which matters if the buyer collects tickets, tolls or worse before registering it.

For the buyer, it is proof of what they paid, which the tax calculation runs on, and evidence of the transfer itself.

It is not a substitute for the title. The title is what transfers ownership, and a bill of sale alone will not register a car.

What belongs on it

Full names and addresses of both parties. The vehicle year, make, model and vehicle identification number, which is the field people most often get wrong by a digit.

The odometer reading, the sale price, and the date of sale.

Whether the vehicle is sold as is, which is the norm in private sales and worth stating explicitly rather than assuming.

Then signatures from both parties, and a copy for each. A bill of sale that only one side keeps is half a record.

When notarizing is worth it anyway

A high value vehicle. The cost is trivial against the amount at stake.

A sale between people who do not know each other, particularly one arranged online, where either side may later dispute what was agreed.

A stated price well below market, including a nominal or family price, which invites questions later.

A transfer from an estate, where somebody may ask who was entitled to sell.

Anything crossing state lines, because the destination state may have its own expectations. See buying and selling across state lines.

In each case the notarization does not change the legal effect. It makes the signature difficult to deny later, which is the whole point.

Some states do require it

New York does not, but several states require a notarized bill of sale or a notarized signature on the title itself.

So the question is not what New York asks. It is what the state where the vehicle will be titled and registered asks, and that is the buyer’s state.

Check before the sale rather than after, because getting a seller back to sign something once the money has changed hands is considerably harder than doing it at the time.

The title matters more than the bill of sale

Worth repeating because it is the actual failure point.

Make sure the seller signs the title correctly, that the name on the title matches their identification, and that the odometer disclosure is completed where required.

Never accept a signed title with the buyer section blank as a way of avoiding paperwork, and never sign a title without filling in the buyer. That practice, sometimes called title jumping, causes registration problems and is not lawful in the way people assume.

If the title is missing, stop and read what to do before any money moves.

If you do want it notarized

Both parties sign in front of the notary, with valid unexpired photo identification each, and nobody signs beforehand.

The parties do not have to be in the same room. Each can be notarized separately, including online in minutes, which is useful for a long distance sale.

What we verify is who signed. We do not verify the vehicle, the mileage, the price or the seller’s right to sell.

What the seller should do the same day

The bill of sale protects you only if you also close the loop with the state.

Remove your plates. In New York plates belong to the registrant, not the vehicle, and leaving them on a car you no longer own is how you inherit somebody else’s tickets and tolls.

Cancel or transfer the insurance, and be careful about the order, because a registration without insurance creates its own problem.

Surrender the plates or transfer them to another vehicle, and keep the receipt.

Keep your copy of the bill of sale and a photograph of the signed title. If the buyer never registers the vehicle, that paperwork is the only thing separating you from what happens next.

What the buyer should check before paying

That the name on the title matches the seller’s identification. If it does not, ask why before any money moves, because a seller who is not the titled owner is a problem regardless of the explanation.

That the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the vehicle, physically, rather than on paperwork alone.

Whether a lien is recorded on the title, and if so, that it has been satisfied and released. A car with a live lien is not the seller’s to sell free and clear.

The vehicle history, and whether the title carries a brand such as salvage or rebuilt, which affects both value and insurability.

Private sales at a distance

Online marketplaces have made long distance private sales normal, and they concentrate every risk on this page.

Insist on the title before or at payment, never after. Use a payment method that leaves a record. Meet somewhere safe, and in daylight.

Where the parties genuinely cannot meet, notarizing both signatures separately, online, adds a verified identity to each side of the transaction. That is not a guarantee against a bad deal, and it does make anonymity harder, which is worth something.

Sale price and the tax form

The New York DMV transaction includes a statement of transaction covering sales tax, and the price you record has consequences.

Recording a price far below what was actually paid, to reduce tax, is a false statement on a state form. It is also a bad idea for the buyer, whose insurance claim and future resale both reference documented value.

Where a vehicle genuinely is a gift or sold within a family for a nominal amount, there is a proper way to record that rather than inventing a number. See gifting a car in New York.

Tax questions belong with the DMV or the Tax Department. A notary cannot advise on them, and this is an area where guessing is expensive.

Keep it to one page

A bill of sale does not need legal language to work. It needs the facts, both signatures and a date.

Resist adding warranties, promises about condition, or clauses copied from somewhere else, because anything you write becomes something you can be held to. In a private sale the usual and honest position is that the vehicle is sold as is, stated plainly.

Print two copies and sign both, so each side leaves with an original rather than one party promising to send a scan.

Signing from another state? Where the vehicle is titled elsewhere, use that state’s form. Our Arizona vehicle power of attorney guide covers one of the states that asks for this most, and we notarize it online from anywhere in the country.

Related reading

This is general information, not legal advice, and NotarEaseNYC is not a law firm and is not affiliated with the New York DMV. Forms, fees and requirements change. Always work from the current form on the DMV website and confirm requirements with the DMV or the motor vehicle agency in the state where the vehicle is titled.

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